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Rudder

Date Hours  
3/6/2005   I spent today re-organizing and putting stuff away. Christine bought me a killer tool box from Sears for my birthday. I am glad the empennage kit didn't count towards this.

I built a shelf and put the stabilizers on it. I spent some time trying to figure out how to build the rudder.

3/8/2005 4.1 I cut one rudder stiffener using the snips. The snips distorted the stiffener on the tapered end so I had to spend a lot of time straightening it out. My old band saw does a poor job of cutting straight but it looked like my best alternative. I took it apart and cleaned it up and oiled it and then adjusted where the blade tracks on the wheel.. I made it so that it tracks barely against the bearing in the back as suggested by Don. Wow, what a difference. I cut several pieces of scrap and they turned out perfectly.

I cut all of the remaining stiffeners with the band saw and smoothed out the edges with by Scotch Brite wheel. I then used my handy edge deburrer to break the edges. It took a while to do all of this. I then Clecoed them to the rudder skin. Next step: more drilling.

Pay attention Grasshopper. Today's lesson is:
Snips maul whatever they attempt to cut in the hands of someone inexperienced (and possibly experienced as well - I wouldn't know).

3/9/2005 1.5 I found some channel iron at Home Depot today. It is about 3/16" thick, 2" wide. I ran my belt sander over it with some really course emery cloth. I have a thick piece of MDF in the groove of the channel iron. I practiced back riveting and am happy with the results. [UPDATE: This turned out to be a stupid idea. It is too narrow.  I ended up creating a big ding in the rudder when the rivet was on the edge of this back plate. I wen t ahead and ordered a real one from Avery]

I drilled out all of the holes that attach the stiffeners.

3/10/2005 2.4 I deburred all of the holes.
3/11/2005 1.1 I washed the stiffeners with Alumiprep and applied Alodine. I dimpled the stiffener rivet holes on the left side of the rudder.

After dimpling, Van's instructions call for priming and riveting the stiffeners into place. Since I still haven't match drilled and dimpled the holes for the spar and ribs, I'll either have to do things out of order or not prime the inside skin.

Also, when I dimpled the holes in the skin, the hole diameters grew. The holes did not become anything close to accepting next size (AD4) but it is still something I would like to know how to minimize.

3/13/2005 7.6 Today was a productive day. I etched and Alodined the skin. Then I primed the skin and the stiffeners. The I went to Home Depot and bought two 2" X 8" X 10' boards and five hinges and constructed the brake mentioned in the instructions. By then the primer was dry so I went ahead and back riveted the stiffeners to the skin. Christine was a life saver here because getting the back rivets is a two person job.

My back rivet set didn't work very well because the rivet shanks are fairly close to the stiffeners. The set kept hoping off the shank. I used my flat set which worked a lot better.  Except for about 3 rivets, the back riveting process turned out very well.

Today's Lesson:
When it comes to a wooden brake, lots of wood is a good thing.

3/14/2005 1.9 I fabricated a shim and two fiberglass fairing attachment strips and Clecoed the spar assembly together. Here's Monica sawing on something not related to the plane. The picture to the left is of the lower forward part of the rudder spar and rib.

3/15/2005 1.6 Tonight I drilled all of the holes and started deburring.
3/16/2005 2.2 I deburred most of the holes. I dimpled the skin.
3/17/2005 3.9 Tonight I finished deburring the holes and edges. I dimpled the spar and top and bottom ribs. Dimpling the back four holes was impossible with my squeezer or pop rivet gun dimpler. I had some 3/8" thick aluminum so I drilled a #40 hole and then countersunk it. I then wedged it on top of a piece of steel in between the flanges of the rib and pounded on one half of the dimple set.

3/18/2005 4.1 I primed the spar, ribs and other items not already primed. I then riveted the spar and ribs together. The next step before riveting on the skin was to ad a dab of RTV between the stiffeners. I just realized I don't have RTV and it is too late to go to Home Depot. First thing tomorrow...

The picture at the left is of the front bottom of the rudder and the one to the right is of the top of the rudder with the fiberglass tip temporarily in place..

3/19/2005 4.4

I riveted the understructure to the skin and then rounded the leading edge using some 1 inch conduit. I then riveted the leading edges to each other using blind rivets. That's it. Done for now.

5/15/2005 1.8 I am waiting for the wing kit to arrive. I decided to take on the fiberglass.

05/19/2005 1.3

Today I received the rudder stribe/position light from Van's. I cut a hole in the rudder bottom and epoxied in two washers and nuts. The picture above shows some screws I put in to hold the nuts and washers in place while the epoxy cured.

     

email: Luis Luciani